Lesson 1: If you travel to Goa between November and April - avoid North Goa beaches like the plague. Spend more time, instead, in interior Goa. We stayed at lovely VErem village, right by the river Mandovi in a private residence. A small hike takes us to Reis Magos - this is lovely and isolated church and fort, dilapidated and ignored both by the conservationists and tourists. Which is just as well - there is a poignance to it the views from the top of teh fort are magnificient. Reis Magos is literally the Three Magi. It is right at the corner of the Mandovi RIver and the Arabian Sea.
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